January 19, 2008

The past few weeks since my last blog entry have been very exciting and super productive on both a professional and personal level. I came to Ecuador via my studies in search of something far greater than simply a dissertation topic. As I mentioned in a previous blog, this experience is an important step in a much longer and personal journey of self discovery. Everything I´ve done and experienced up until this moment-- my graduate studies, my struggle with my identity, my love of music and academic interests—has in some way prepared me for and set me on this path. I know that my being here in Ecuador, that my interest in la Bomba and in the black communities of the Chota-Valley is no accident. Every step of the process has required a leap of faith, having only a year ago switched dissertation topics. But something from deep within me urged me forward, guided my step and told me this was right. And so here I am in Ecuador, behind the reading curve (as one professor puts it), not having any research experience in the Chota valley, without external funding, starting anew with contacts and building relationships, and still not certain of which direction this dissertation topic will take me. But I decided to follow my heart trusting that time will answer all my doubts, fears, and questions, and lead me forward on my life´s journey. Little did I know that I´m not alone on this journey.

As you all know, when I first arrived, I spent the first two months getting organized and floundering somewhat. I expected this, of course, but I finally made contact with a key contact here in Ecuador, Edison Leon, who proved to be the catalyst for my journey. During our first meeting in November, he mentioned in passing, that yet another graduate student was here doing research on la Bomba and the oral traditions of the communities of the Chota-valley. Naturally, he thought it would be a good idea if we met up at some point. This thought intrigued me, but I set the comment aside as the festivities of December approached, knowing I´d accomplish little in the way of research during that time. Contacts and questions of research would have to wait until the new year, I thought to myself.

The holiday break gave me some distance and perspective, and I quickly reinitiated contact with Edison soon after the New Year. On January 9, I met Edison in his office with nothing in hand--nothing to show and really nothing to ask other than ¨hey, can you help me get started with this?¨ Despite this fact, I knew I had to go and see him in person. Little did I know that this meeting would serve as a catalyst for the amazing events and experiences to follow, for unbeknownst to me, he had invited another person to our meeting—Diana, the other graduate student doing research on La Bomba!

As it turns out, Diana, originally from Argentina, is a graduate student at Ohio State University and is here on a Fulbright doing dissertation research on La Bomba for a degree in Spanish Literature! We immediately connected, not only because of our similar research interests, but because we both sensed that there was something greater to our meeting than mere coincidence and chance. I´ll let Diana speak to her side of the story, but what I can say is that both Diana and I have been searching for a long time, searching for questions that we weren´t even conscious of and least expected to confront and resolve during the course of our time here in Ecuador. As one who never really truly believed in the concept of true love and destiny up until this moment, I never would have imagined the intensity of my encounter and experience with Diana. I´ve never known anything to feel so right in my life. I now know that not only will Diana and I make an amazing team as professionals, but that, together, we will share our love for one another and for the people with whom we work here in Ecuador for the rest of our lives. I met my soul mate. I´m now a believer—Thank you God.

I hope this message finds everyone well and at peace. I wish you all the best and hope that you find happiness and true love in your own lives if you haven´t already.

Love from the Chota Valley, Ecuador
Pacho and Diana

January 7, 2008

Nikki and I in front of Guapulo (name of church and area), and yes, that is a very old church

Me, Nikki, my grandmother, and her sister (one of many), Isabel

My grandmother, myself, Nikki, Isabel, cousin Cris, her husband Paul, cousin Mercedes

Crowd of Old Year dolls for sale in the park, La Carolina

Gotta love the widows

January 5, 2008

Happy new year!

I hope the new year is getting off to a good start for everyone thus far. For all my friends at the FDA, I hope the move went (or is going) smoothly and that the new space inspires and helps bring great success in the year to come! For my friends and professors at FSU, I hope you can put the football scandal behind (a musicology course, who would have imagined?!) and go on to accomplish many wonderful feats of academic greatness (keep churning out those papers). For my other friends and family, may you also experience fortune and success in the year to come.

Nicolette left early this morning and should be on her way to SanFrancisco via Houston at this moment. It was great to have her here, and though it was only two weeks, we managed to do quite a bit without wearing ourselves out too much! We spent two days on the coast, swimming in the Pacific by day, drinking coconut shakes and dancing beachside by night, and stuffing ourselves with ceviche, fish, patacones and maduros (fried plantains)! We then returned to Quito to spend time with my grandmother and cousins. We also took the opportunity to visit some of the major tourist attractions, including el panecillo, the historic colonial center, the teleferico (a gondola that takes you up guagua pichincha--the volcano overlooking Quito), the mariscal area (an area full of bars, restaurants, hostals, shops, and clubs), and some of the markets. The only other trip we took outside of Quito was to Guayllabamba with my grandmother.

Though we didn´t get to everything that we wanted to see and do, I think we used our time the best we could and had a lot of fun in the process. I´m grateful that Nicolette and I had the opportunity to spend the holidays together here in Ecuador, and I´m going to miss her very much. As I mentioned before, Nicolette and I don´t get to see each other very often, but when we do, it´s always a memorable experience. So, thanks again, Nicolette, for taking the time to visit.

Needless to say, I didn´t do much with my research over the last two weeks, but the time off was definately needed. It can be a bit overwhelming and draining being so focused on one project for so long. It´s only been two months thus far, but this is the first time that I´ve been focused on just one, not multiple projects, and I´m anticipating working on this for the next year and a half, hopefully no more than two years. I´ll write about my project in greater detail in the next posting, though, because I want to talk about the new year´s celebration here in Ecuador since people have been asking.

New year´s in Ecuador is also known as the "old year." As the name suggests, the various traditions not only celebrate the new year, but also commemorate the passing year. There are various secular traditions and rituals that are observed, all of them with some personal or social significance. Some of these traditions are quite peculiar, like eating twelve grapes, lentils, and changing into yellow underware (ladies) at midnight (all supposedly for good luck). If you want to travel during the new year, you should run around the house or the neighborhood with a piece of luggage at midnight. There are other similar small things you can do to bring success in other areas of your life. But the most interesting part about new year´s celebration, for me at least, is the tradition of burning the "old year."

The "old year" is actually personified in the form of a stuffed, practically life-sized doll with a fairly elaborate paper or plaster mask depicting the likeness of some individual (usually political figures, maybe a family member or a neighbor). The dolls and masks are sold on the streets and parks in the days leading up to the new year. Sometimes you´ll see cars or motorcycles with these dolls strapped to the front of the vehicle (it´s really amusing). The dolls range from very elaborate works of art (I saw some huge dolls in the form of transformers), to more crude and generic figures. In the end, the dolls are burned in the street at midnight, signifying the passing of the old year. They say it´s good luck to jump over the flaming doll (that´s if you don´t get burned). They also say it´s good luck to be chosen as the old year (to be burned). Those "burned" usually write up witty testaments about family and friends, saying what it is that they will leave behind for their loved ones (more like a funny will). It´s amazing to look out over the city around midnight because all you see is this haze from the burning dolls. flaming and charred piles of ash line the city streets, making driving a bit hazardous. Driving can also be complicated by the presence of the "viudas," or widows.

The "widows" are another very interesting tradition that commerates in a very peculiar way the passage of the old year. Men dressed in drag will stop cars at intersections, flirt with men and ask for money. The clothing and demeanor is supposed to be provacative and they tend to be quite aggressive in their gestures and flirtatious behaviour. The idea is that these men dressed as women represent the "widows" of the dying year, and even though the year is not yet over (the old year is on its deathbed), they are already out flirting with other men (probably representing the eager anticipation of the new year and the youthfullness, "newness" of the year to come). Very fascinating, especially considering cross-dressing is an important aspect of many festivals/celebrations here in Ecuador, and the fact that such behavior is typically frowned upon outside of such contexts (Ecuador in general has a ways to go with regards to accepting alternative lifestyles).

So, I´m still not entirely certain beyond the obvious what the above behaviors and rituals signify. Being my first new year´s in Ecuador and having only spent a few months here, it would be difficult for me to even guess at this point. One thing is for certain, though, the new year is not simply about looking forward and rejecting the past year (despite the tempation to read the burning of the old year and the behaviour of the "widows" as such). The celebrations and rituals link and even overlap the old and new year in very complicated and profound ways (though they may be lighthearted). How this might be connected to local concepts of time, I can´t say for certain at this moment. For those of you with more experience in Ecuador or Latin America, perhaps you could shed some light on this question.

People here ask how we celebrate back in the States. My response sometimes leaves them unsatisfied, so let me put the question to you. What traditions do you or your family have and share for the new year? Is there any peculiar, interesting, or funny traditions/rituals that you observe? What does the new year and the passage of the old year mean to you and how is its significance manifested in the way that you spend or celebrate new year´s? All comments due by Jan 1, 2009 ;)

Thank you all for your emails over the holidays. Luke and Marisol, I hope you are having a wonderful time in Chile! How long is a bus ride to Ecuador? Ok, Chao for now and good luck in the months to come!

Happy new year once again!
Pacho

December 17, 2007

Happy holidays! I hope all is well and that the season brings many happy tidings, wherever you may be. Christmas is my favorite holiday, most likely because it is the one time of the year that most if not all of the family comes together. (The only other time that seems to happen is either during weddings or funerals). I have so many wonderful memories of Christmas with the family, and even though our holiday traditions have adjusted and changed over time, it’s always a moment to remember and to be thankful for. Besides, it’s not so much what we do or where we meet, but who we are with that makes the occasion, right? If that’s the case, than this Christmas should also be a memorable experience even though I’m far from home.

Yes, this is my first Christmas away from home! I’m doing surprisingly well considering, but I’m not alone this holiday season. My sister Nicolette will be joining me for the holidays, which I’m super excited about. I rarely get to see her, so this will be a good occasion to catch up, visit family, show her a bit of Ecuador, and have fun! Between my own family and the Suarez family, then, I’ll be in good company this Christmas.

While no snow adorns the ground and the Christmas trees look more like cone shaped bushes, the Christmas spirit is certainly upon us here in Ecuador (or at least in Quito). The holiday traditions vary in Ecuador, depending on where you are (as in which community you’re in), but considering the fact that the country is predominantly Catholic, there is a common base in the Church and its rituals. In this respect, the Christmas traditions here would feel familiar though appear somewhat distinct in its form to many of you who are Catholic (or of any other denomination for that matter).

For instance, there is a wonderful tradition here known as the novenas, which has parallels in other Latin American countries (like the posada in Mexico). For nine evenings, family, neighbors, and friends gather at the home of one of the participating families (the location rotates every night) for an evening of formal and informal prayer, readings, responses, and music making (mainly villancicos, or Christmas songs, like “campana sobre campana,” or “pero mira como beben”). The final novena is observed by each family in their own respective homes. A fairly elaborate nativity scene sits at the head or at the center of the gathering, usually with a basket or a place for the baby Jesus who, up until the last novena, is not made present. The prayers and responses are those normally recited in the Catholic church, such as the Our Father, Hail Mary, rosaries, etc. The smell of incense (an aromatic piece of wood known as palo santo) pervades the ritual space. For each of the nine nights, a different aspect of the nativity is commemorated in the recitations and meditations (i.e., Gabriel’s visit to Mary, the story of Saint John the Baptist, the trip to Bethlehem, the announcement of Jesus birth to the shepherds, etc.). An air of reverance pervades throughout, and the whole ritual lasts probably no more than 20 or 30 minutes (depending on the number of villancicos). After the formal ceremony, the families and friends celebrate the evening, sharing a light meal and drinks. The nine evenings of the novenas symbolize the nine months Mary carried Jesus in her womb.

While not celebrated by everyone in Ecuador (I’m assuming it’s mainly a mestizo tradition), it is a good example of the way formal church rituals are integrated into daily social life, reinforcing and expressing local values (such as family, community, etc.). I don’t necessarily like the term “folk” religion, which is often used to describe the various forms and practices of Catholicism in Latin America, because it implies something of a bastardization (in the negative sense) of a supposedly pure form or practice. But Catholicism does have a distinct flavor here, and it really has to do with the way the people have made the teachings and practices of the church meaningful to themselves and their lived reality.

Now, there are other aspects to this too, considering that Christianity was imposed on the indigenous communities (and African slaves) who had their own respective beliefs and practices. Here we find some really interesting expressions of faith that incorporate pre-Colombian and Catholic images, forms, beliefs, and practices. I’ll write more on some of these traditions later, but many have made the argument that the Catholic faith brought by the Spanish and imposed on these communities has ultimately been interpreted through local understandings (worldviews). In this sense, for many of the indigenous and Afro-Ecuadorian communities, a celebration of difuntos (day of dead), semana santa (holy week), or of any of the patron saints take on very different connotations. To visit deceased relatives and share food at the cemetery, to reenact the crucifixion of Jesus, or to dance during San Juan (St. John) is to literally commune and share food with ones ancestors, to embody the suffering and redemption (resurrection) of not only Jesus but of a whole community (here I’m talking about the Afro-Ecuadorian communities), and to pay homage to the sun and the earth that make life itself possible. Above all, these practices reflect an underlying belief in the existence of and even interdependence between the natural and the supernatural world. Indeed, that deceased ancestors could possibly intercede and act on behalf of the living is a belief that is also commonly held among followers of the Catholic church. From this perspective, it only makes sense that certain aspects of the Church would resonate with local beliefs and practices.

That said make no mistake that the devout participants in these festivals and celebrations consider themselves Catholics. For them, there is no contradiction, no syncretism, no conscious blending. They simply practice a faith, whether you want to call it Catholicism or otherwise, that speaks to their specific needs and understandings.

Well, I’m no theologian, nor would I consider myself the most apt person to talk about matters of faith considering my own agnostic tendencies, but I would be willing to say that most of us choose to believe or put our faith in that which seems most relevant to our own lives and daily lived experiences. And it seems that both aspects, our beliefs and our lived experiences (practice), continually inform one another. At least, this seems to be a matter of truth (with a little “t”) to me ;)

So there’s my reflection on Catholicism in Latin America and faith in general for this holiday season. Stay tuned next week for a discussion on politics, . . . (just kidding). Please know that my thoughts are with all of you (my family and friends) this holiday season. Take care for now!

Happy Holidays,
Pacho

December 3, 2007

There’s an air of festivity, excitement, and anticipation in Ecuador these days as the nation celebrates not only the founding of its capital city, San Francisco de Quito (Dec. 6, 1534), but the inauguration of a national constitutional assembly whose charge it is to draft a new constitution. Called for by President Correa and approved by popular vote, the assembly consists of 130 members representing the various provinces and diversity of Ecuador’s population. The revision of the constitution will take place over the course of the next six months. In the meantime, however, the national congress has been essentially dissolved. Whether or not a new congress will be instated depends on the new constitution and how the assembly (re)structures the government. Let’s hope that the process goes more smoothly than it did in Bolivia.

While the assembly is hard at work, Quito celebrate. Fiestas de Quito is a party not to be missed in Ecuador. For approximately two weeks culminating on the 6^th of December, the city preoccupies itself with beauty pageants, bull fights, formal events, and parties. Traditional foods, live bands playing national music, and chivas (party buses) are found in plenty on the streets during this time, and there is certainly no shortage of alcohol as people take to dancing and drinking into the early hours of the morning. Yes, Fiestas de Quito is infamous for its party reputation, so much so that the city is actively promoting responsible drinking. When considering the popular party slogan “que chupe Quito!” (chupe is an expression for drinking, but drinking hard), it’s not hard to imagine why the local authorities would be concerned.

Aside from the heavy partying, the event that defines Fiestas de Quito is the bull fight. Throughout the festival, bullfighters from various parts of the Spanish speaking world converge on the plaza de los toros to display their skill and artistry as professional toreadors in front of thousands of spectators. While not one for watching blood sports, I had to see for myself what it is about bull fighting that seems to captivate the imagination of its audience. What I encountered was something both frightening and beautiful at the same time.

Standing only inches before the bull, the matador, with his elegant suit of mirrors, red cape, and sword, challenges the bull with calm and graceful movements, deftly and narrowly dodging its’ charging horns. By now wounded and angered by the lances thrust between its’ shoulder blades, the bull warily watches, waiting for an opportunity to catch the provoking figure unaware. The matador, displaying his courage, turns from the bull and arches his back, never taking his eyes off the bull. His confidence growing, he becomes more daring with his cape, allowing the bull to pass close enough to touch its’ body. The cheering spectators, praising the matador’s skill and elegant performance, shout Olé with every pass.

The final test, however, that which defines a matadors true prowess, is in the killing blow (the estocada). The matador tosses aside the red cape (the muleta), revealing the sword beneath and steadies himself as he musters his concentration and courage for the final approach. A good matador, for his honor and for that of the bull, must place the sword between the shoulder blades and through the heart in one swift movement that will bring the matador and the bull dangerously close together. No matter how elegant a performance up to that point, a failed attempt can bring shame to a matador and arouse anger from the audience, for no matter how counterintuitive it may seem, bull fighting from the perspective of the bullfighters is as much about the honor of the bull as it is of the matador.

In the end, the bullfight itself is a highly ritualized event involving a series of movements, postures, and gestures that a matador and his assistants must master and execute with grace. As such, its greater significance with regards to Spanish culture may be understood in terms of its underlying symbolism. Considering the origins and development of the contemporary corrida de toros (Spanish style bullfighting) among eighteenth century Spanish nobility, it may be that the matador embodies certain Spanish ideals concerning masculinity and, in turn, the relationship between man and the natural world. The matador projects courage, grace, valor, confidence and honor in the face of adversity. The bull, by extension, could signify any adversary or challenge that we encounter and must learn to overcome during the course of our lives. Furthermore, the relationship between the matador and the bull is one of respect, but it is also ultimately one of mastery or subjugation (a hierarchical relationship). The significance of bullfighting, apart from a source of popular entertainment, is most likely contained in the symbolism embodied in the relationship between the matador and the bull, as it reflects our capacity to confront and overcome our fears with courage, grace, valor, confidence, and honor.

To the matador in all of us, Olé!

Que viva Quito!!
Pacho

November 23, 2007

I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving. Though a holiday generally not observed here in Ecuador, Thanksgiving was nonetheless spent feasting on turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, green bean casserole, salad, and a whole lot of cake. Yes, it was an intercultural celebration that brought together U.S. college students studying in Ecuador through the Fundacion Cimas and their Ecuadorian host families and friends. Four large turkeys and an impressive spread of side dishes and desserts prepared by the students were shared among the 80 or so people in attendance. In true Ecuadorian fashion, long speeches, plenty of jokes, and an all-out dance party were also included in the day’s event. In all, it was an enjoyable Thanksgiving, and though I certainly missed my family and friends I was grateful to be able to share that day with so many wonderful people.

Unfortunately, the day was also marked by tragedy. On the way back from the celebration, Luis, Jose, Nicky and I drove past what appeared to be an accident site. Judging by the crowd of onlookers gathered just in front of the police car, Luis guessed that someone must have been hit by a car. A pair of mangled legs visible just beyond the police vehicle confirmed his suspicion. As we passed, we saw an elderly gentleman wearing a brown suit lying on the ground. Despite the large crowd and policing standing near by, no one seemed to be attending the poor man, so Luis, Jose (both medical doctors), and Nicky (an RN) pulled over and rushed over to see what they could do. By this time darkness had already settled and the evening had turned foggy and rainy. According to the police, an ambulance had been contacted and was on the way. It was at least ten minutes before the ambulance actually did arrive, however, and by that time, the man had been lying in the rain with no assistance for about a half an hour according to witnesses. The most Luis, Jose, and Nicky could do was comfort the man and clear his airway.

Considering the extent of his injuries and the slow medical response time, chances are that the gentleman did not survive the night. This I can’t confirm, but aside from his injuries, a few other factors seemed to work against him. Specifically his age and lack of identification or other documentation (which meant he probably didn’t have health insurance and a family to speak of) most likely secured him a minimum level of care. I don’t mean to speak ill of the quality of the health services here in Ecuador, but it’s a part of the reality here (and this reality voiced by Luis himself). Chances are they took him to the hospital to die. I wasn’t joking when I said pedestrians don’t have the right of way.

In other news, the public announcement of another kind of passing was made by president Correa with regards to the U.S. military base in Manta, Ecuador. Even before taking office, Correa had hinted at the fact that he would not renew the U.S. military contract for the airbase in Manta (which expires soon), unless, of course, the U.S. was willing to let Ecuador have a military base in the United States (say in Miami, for instance). So, the news shouldn’t have come as such a surprise except for the fact that Correa made an agreement with China, essentially opening the airport for international trade and travel to and from East Asia. Obviously the politics behind this move are complex and, to put it mildly, bold. According to Lenin Moreno, the vice president, the airport is to be used exclusively for commerce and travel and that the decision to terminate the contract with the U.S. and negotiate with China does not signal a change in Ecuador’s relationship, economically and politically, with Washington. We’ll see how the U.S. responds.

So, this Thanksgiving turned out to be quite memorable. In some ways the tragedy witnessed and the day’s activity on the national and international political/economic level helped put the day into perspective. Such events remind me of the fragility of life, of the suffering of others, the role of greater social, political, and economic forces and struggles in our daily lives, and of all that we should be grateful for in this life. To my family and many friends who have supported me over the years, my many thanks.

Un Abrazo,
Pacho

November 20, 2007

Well, it took me a few weeks, but I finally figured out how to post pictures. If I’m not mistaken, you can see the webalbum by clicking on the slideshow. I’m not exactly sure how it all works, but it definitely wasn’t as simple as they make it out to be (posting the photos). Now facebook, that’s far more user friendly than the blog. Come to think of it, the word “blog” sounds like some sort of grotesque monster—beware the Blog!

The pictures you see are from the first weekend. They include shots of the airport in Houston, the hotel in Guayaquil (and the view from the window), Tonsupa (a coastal town near Esmeraldas), the Suarez family and friends, and of the ride back to Quito. I tried to take pictures of the road signs urging people to slow down and not pass on curves because I thought they were somewhat telling with regards to driving habits here in Ecuador.

Depending on the route taken, the trip between Quito and Tonsupa/Esmeraldas is about five, maybe six hours. On the way to the coast the trip is practically all downhill (some 9,000ft), and it’s all curves. I was always under the impression that you ease up on the acceleration when taking a curve, and that passing cars is done only when you have a clear view of oncoming traffic. Apparently they have a different logic here. Curves are best taken at high speeds and passing is most appropriate when the chances of a head on collision are at a maximum. But what a rush!

Bus drivers are no different in their driving habits. In fact, they are even worse. The first few times I took a bus here in Ecuador, I closed the window shades and kept my eyes on the video screen at the front of the bus. You just have to trust that the bus drivers actually know what they are doing.

Now, driving in the city is a little different, but it also has its own peculiar logic. Street lanes and traffic lights might as well not exist, and pedestrians definitely do not have the right of way (the person who invented frogger must have been from Ecuador). A left hand turn from the right lane is acceptable so long as you have the engine and pick-up to cut of the car in the left hand lane. Excessive honking is an absolute must. Occasional glares and obscenities are only expected. Merging is more like edging your way into traffic until the physical presence of your vehicle can no longer be ignored by other drivers. While buses pick-up and drop off passengers anywhere along their path, don’t expect them to actually come to a complete stop. And motorcycles, well, they drive wherever they can.

I have a theory about traffic logic here. It seems that people drive and negotiate traffic the same way they would as if walking down a crowded street. So the car ends up being an extension of the self (it is anyway, but I mean it most literally here). It’s chaos, but it does have its’ own logic. It seems to be one based on common street sense rather than on some abstract notion of proper vehicular behavior (i.e., traffic laws). That said, the government is working hard to get people to obey traffic laws and to become safer drivers. In fact, just recently the congress—which is about to be dissolved soon, more on that later—targeted public transportation drivers in an attempt to increase fines and generally hold them more accountable for reckless driving. This group of motorists, however, are substantial in size and are quite powerful economically (instead of big tobacco think big public transportation). If public transportation workers were to go on strike, it would practically freeze the city. That’s true almost anywhere, and if I’m not mistaken, in some places (New York, ahem) municipal workers aren’t allowed to strike (in other words, it’s illegal). Go figure. President Correa (more on him later as well) decided to override the congress, choosing to take a different route. From what I understand, as of this next year all driving licenses expire and are to be renewed following the successful completion of an on-road driving exam. Yes, everyone with a license and a vehicle will need to take the exam. Oh to be sixteen again . . .

Drive safely,
Pacho