January 5, 2008

Happy new year!

I hope the new year is getting off to a good start for everyone thus far. For all my friends at the FDA, I hope the move went (or is going) smoothly and that the new space inspires and helps bring great success in the year to come! For my friends and professors at FSU, I hope you can put the football scandal behind (a musicology course, who would have imagined?!) and go on to accomplish many wonderful feats of academic greatness (keep churning out those papers). For my other friends and family, may you also experience fortune and success in the year to come.

Nicolette left early this morning and should be on her way to SanFrancisco via Houston at this moment. It was great to have her here, and though it was only two weeks, we managed to do quite a bit without wearing ourselves out too much! We spent two days on the coast, swimming in the Pacific by day, drinking coconut shakes and dancing beachside by night, and stuffing ourselves with ceviche, fish, patacones and maduros (fried plantains)! We then returned to Quito to spend time with my grandmother and cousins. We also took the opportunity to visit some of the major tourist attractions, including el panecillo, the historic colonial center, the teleferico (a gondola that takes you up guagua pichincha--the volcano overlooking Quito), the mariscal area (an area full of bars, restaurants, hostals, shops, and clubs), and some of the markets. The only other trip we took outside of Quito was to Guayllabamba with my grandmother.

Though we didn´t get to everything that we wanted to see and do, I think we used our time the best we could and had a lot of fun in the process. I´m grateful that Nicolette and I had the opportunity to spend the holidays together here in Ecuador, and I´m going to miss her very much. As I mentioned before, Nicolette and I don´t get to see each other very often, but when we do, it´s always a memorable experience. So, thanks again, Nicolette, for taking the time to visit.

Needless to say, I didn´t do much with my research over the last two weeks, but the time off was definately needed. It can be a bit overwhelming and draining being so focused on one project for so long. It´s only been two months thus far, but this is the first time that I´ve been focused on just one, not multiple projects, and I´m anticipating working on this for the next year and a half, hopefully no more than two years. I´ll write about my project in greater detail in the next posting, though, because I want to talk about the new year´s celebration here in Ecuador since people have been asking.

New year´s in Ecuador is also known as the "old year." As the name suggests, the various traditions not only celebrate the new year, but also commemorate the passing year. There are various secular traditions and rituals that are observed, all of them with some personal or social significance. Some of these traditions are quite peculiar, like eating twelve grapes, lentils, and changing into yellow underware (ladies) at midnight (all supposedly for good luck). If you want to travel during the new year, you should run around the house or the neighborhood with a piece of luggage at midnight. There are other similar small things you can do to bring success in other areas of your life. But the most interesting part about new year´s celebration, for me at least, is the tradition of burning the "old year."

The "old year" is actually personified in the form of a stuffed, practically life-sized doll with a fairly elaborate paper or plaster mask depicting the likeness of some individual (usually political figures, maybe a family member or a neighbor). The dolls and masks are sold on the streets and parks in the days leading up to the new year. Sometimes you´ll see cars or motorcycles with these dolls strapped to the front of the vehicle (it´s really amusing). The dolls range from very elaborate works of art (I saw some huge dolls in the form of transformers), to more crude and generic figures. In the end, the dolls are burned in the street at midnight, signifying the passing of the old year. They say it´s good luck to jump over the flaming doll (that´s if you don´t get burned). They also say it´s good luck to be chosen as the old year (to be burned). Those "burned" usually write up witty testaments about family and friends, saying what it is that they will leave behind for their loved ones (more like a funny will). It´s amazing to look out over the city around midnight because all you see is this haze from the burning dolls. flaming and charred piles of ash line the city streets, making driving a bit hazardous. Driving can also be complicated by the presence of the "viudas," or widows.

The "widows" are another very interesting tradition that commerates in a very peculiar way the passage of the old year. Men dressed in drag will stop cars at intersections, flirt with men and ask for money. The clothing and demeanor is supposed to be provacative and they tend to be quite aggressive in their gestures and flirtatious behaviour. The idea is that these men dressed as women represent the "widows" of the dying year, and even though the year is not yet over (the old year is on its deathbed), they are already out flirting with other men (probably representing the eager anticipation of the new year and the youthfullness, "newness" of the year to come). Very fascinating, especially considering cross-dressing is an important aspect of many festivals/celebrations here in Ecuador, and the fact that such behavior is typically frowned upon outside of such contexts (Ecuador in general has a ways to go with regards to accepting alternative lifestyles).

So, I´m still not entirely certain beyond the obvious what the above behaviors and rituals signify. Being my first new year´s in Ecuador and having only spent a few months here, it would be difficult for me to even guess at this point. One thing is for certain, though, the new year is not simply about looking forward and rejecting the past year (despite the tempation to read the burning of the old year and the behaviour of the "widows" as such). The celebrations and rituals link and even overlap the old and new year in very complicated and profound ways (though they may be lighthearted). How this might be connected to local concepts of time, I can´t say for certain at this moment. For those of you with more experience in Ecuador or Latin America, perhaps you could shed some light on this question.

People here ask how we celebrate back in the States. My response sometimes leaves them unsatisfied, so let me put the question to you. What traditions do you or your family have and share for the new year? Is there any peculiar, interesting, or funny traditions/rituals that you observe? What does the new year and the passage of the old year mean to you and how is its significance manifested in the way that you spend or celebrate new year´s? All comments due by Jan 1, 2009 ;)

Thank you all for your emails over the holidays. Luke and Marisol, I hope you are having a wonderful time in Chile! How long is a bus ride to Ecuador? Ok, Chao for now and good luck in the months to come!

Happy new year once again!
Pacho