November 23, 2007

I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving. Though a holiday generally not observed here in Ecuador, Thanksgiving was nonetheless spent feasting on turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy, green bean casserole, salad, and a whole lot of cake. Yes, it was an intercultural celebration that brought together U.S. college students studying in Ecuador through the Fundacion Cimas and their Ecuadorian host families and friends. Four large turkeys and an impressive spread of side dishes and desserts prepared by the students were shared among the 80 or so people in attendance. In true Ecuadorian fashion, long speeches, plenty of jokes, and an all-out dance party were also included in the day’s event. In all, it was an enjoyable Thanksgiving, and though I certainly missed my family and friends I was grateful to be able to share that day with so many wonderful people.

Unfortunately, the day was also marked by tragedy. On the way back from the celebration, Luis, Jose, Nicky and I drove past what appeared to be an accident site. Judging by the crowd of onlookers gathered just in front of the police car, Luis guessed that someone must have been hit by a car. A pair of mangled legs visible just beyond the police vehicle confirmed his suspicion. As we passed, we saw an elderly gentleman wearing a brown suit lying on the ground. Despite the large crowd and policing standing near by, no one seemed to be attending the poor man, so Luis, Jose (both medical doctors), and Nicky (an RN) pulled over and rushed over to see what they could do. By this time darkness had already settled and the evening had turned foggy and rainy. According to the police, an ambulance had been contacted and was on the way. It was at least ten minutes before the ambulance actually did arrive, however, and by that time, the man had been lying in the rain with no assistance for about a half an hour according to witnesses. The most Luis, Jose, and Nicky could do was comfort the man and clear his airway.

Considering the extent of his injuries and the slow medical response time, chances are that the gentleman did not survive the night. This I can’t confirm, but aside from his injuries, a few other factors seemed to work against him. Specifically his age and lack of identification or other documentation (which meant he probably didn’t have health insurance and a family to speak of) most likely secured him a minimum level of care. I don’t mean to speak ill of the quality of the health services here in Ecuador, but it’s a part of the reality here (and this reality voiced by Luis himself). Chances are they took him to the hospital to die. I wasn’t joking when I said pedestrians don’t have the right of way.

In other news, the public announcement of another kind of passing was made by president Correa with regards to the U.S. military base in Manta, Ecuador. Even before taking office, Correa had hinted at the fact that he would not renew the U.S. military contract for the airbase in Manta (which expires soon), unless, of course, the U.S. was willing to let Ecuador have a military base in the United States (say in Miami, for instance). So, the news shouldn’t have come as such a surprise except for the fact that Correa made an agreement with China, essentially opening the airport for international trade and travel to and from East Asia. Obviously the politics behind this move are complex and, to put it mildly, bold. According to Lenin Moreno, the vice president, the airport is to be used exclusively for commerce and travel and that the decision to terminate the contract with the U.S. and negotiate with China does not signal a change in Ecuador’s relationship, economically and politically, with Washington. We’ll see how the U.S. responds.

So, this Thanksgiving turned out to be quite memorable. In some ways the tragedy witnessed and the day’s activity on the national and international political/economic level helped put the day into perspective. Such events remind me of the fragility of life, of the suffering of others, the role of greater social, political, and economic forces and struggles in our daily lives, and of all that we should be grateful for in this life. To my family and many friends who have supported me over the years, my many thanks.

Un Abrazo,
Pacho

November 20, 2007

Well, it took me a few weeks, but I finally figured out how to post pictures. If I’m not mistaken, you can see the webalbum by clicking on the slideshow. I’m not exactly sure how it all works, but it definitely wasn’t as simple as they make it out to be (posting the photos). Now facebook, that’s far more user friendly than the blog. Come to think of it, the word “blog” sounds like some sort of grotesque monster—beware the Blog!

The pictures you see are from the first weekend. They include shots of the airport in Houston, the hotel in Guayaquil (and the view from the window), Tonsupa (a coastal town near Esmeraldas), the Suarez family and friends, and of the ride back to Quito. I tried to take pictures of the road signs urging people to slow down and not pass on curves because I thought they were somewhat telling with regards to driving habits here in Ecuador.

Depending on the route taken, the trip between Quito and Tonsupa/Esmeraldas is about five, maybe six hours. On the way to the coast the trip is practically all downhill (some 9,000ft), and it’s all curves. I was always under the impression that you ease up on the acceleration when taking a curve, and that passing cars is done only when you have a clear view of oncoming traffic. Apparently they have a different logic here. Curves are best taken at high speeds and passing is most appropriate when the chances of a head on collision are at a maximum. But what a rush!

Bus drivers are no different in their driving habits. In fact, they are even worse. The first few times I took a bus here in Ecuador, I closed the window shades and kept my eyes on the video screen at the front of the bus. You just have to trust that the bus drivers actually know what they are doing.

Now, driving in the city is a little different, but it also has its own peculiar logic. Street lanes and traffic lights might as well not exist, and pedestrians definitely do not have the right of way (the person who invented frogger must have been from Ecuador). A left hand turn from the right lane is acceptable so long as you have the engine and pick-up to cut of the car in the left hand lane. Excessive honking is an absolute must. Occasional glares and obscenities are only expected. Merging is more like edging your way into traffic until the physical presence of your vehicle can no longer be ignored by other drivers. While buses pick-up and drop off passengers anywhere along their path, don’t expect them to actually come to a complete stop. And motorcycles, well, they drive wherever they can.

I have a theory about traffic logic here. It seems that people drive and negotiate traffic the same way they would as if walking down a crowded street. So the car ends up being an extension of the self (it is anyway, but I mean it most literally here). It’s chaos, but it does have its’ own logic. It seems to be one based on common street sense rather than on some abstract notion of proper vehicular behavior (i.e., traffic laws). That said, the government is working hard to get people to obey traffic laws and to become safer drivers. In fact, just recently the congress—which is about to be dissolved soon, more on that later—targeted public transportation drivers in an attempt to increase fines and generally hold them more accountable for reckless driving. This group of motorists, however, are substantial in size and are quite powerful economically (instead of big tobacco think big public transportation). If public transportation workers were to go on strike, it would practically freeze the city. That’s true almost anywhere, and if I’m not mistaken, in some places (New York, ahem) municipal workers aren’t allowed to strike (in other words, it’s illegal). Go figure. President Correa (more on him later as well) decided to override the congress, choosing to take a different route. From what I understand, as of this next year all driving licenses expire and are to be renewed following the successful completion of an on-road driving exam. Yes, everyone with a license and a vehicle will need to take the exam. Oh to be sixteen again . . .

Drive safely,
Pacho

November 18, 2007

It’s a beautiful Sunday here in Quito. The few clouds passing overhead barely skim the top of the mountains overlooking the city. It is there that heaven and earth meet, what place more fitting for the gods? Well, I can now rightfully be accused of having my head in the clouds.

Seriously, though, observing the valley and the surrounding landscape has been one of my favorite pastimes thus far. I have several pictures of the same view, but it always seems to look different depending on the time of day, amount of sunlight, and cloud cover. Half the mountains in the vicinity are obscured more often than not. Those rare occasions when the snow peak summits do shed their cloaks, however, are truly amazing. The landscape you once thought familiar instantly transforms and you can’t help but stop and catch your breath in awe. The ocean likewise affects me so. Its vastness, mystery, and power transfix me, commanding awe and respect. It stands to reason that, worldwide and ages over, people have personified, deified, and paid homage to such natural wonders—the home of the gods, the mighty seas and majestic summits.

And here I am some 9,000ft above sea level, almost able to touch the clouds and only hours from the Pacific coast, awaiting the inspiration that has eluded me of late. My confidence ebbs and flows as regularly as the ocean tide, at times hesitant and retreating, and yet other times overflowing. The week’s events presented both personal and professional surprises and challenges, forcing me to re-evaluate some of my priorities and my approach with regards to my project. I do not mean to be so vague, but I know that only I can answer the questions that I’m asking myself at this point, and that perhaps only time and a willingness to follow my intuition and take certain risks will ultimately lead me forward. So I am glad to have a moment for reflection on this beautiful Sunday afternoon, and I hope that you also have a chance to relax and allow your mind to wander a bit. Until the next posting,

Cuidanse,
Pacho

November 12, 2007

Go figure, I post a comment about the Mariscal Sucre airport and a few days later an airplane goes off the runway while attempting to land. Luckily nobody was hurt. The airport was completely closed for the weekend. The reason for the accident is yet unknown.

In other news, I spent the weekend with my grandmother in Guayllabamba, a town just north of Quito and a bit lower in altitude. There she has a small finca, or plot of land that she farms up in the hills above the city. While she has a house in Carapungo, it seems that she now spends more time in Guayllabamba than in Carapungo. She tells me it’s because she has no one to watch her property, which is certainly a concern, but I think it has more to do with the peace and tranquility of the surrounding environment (in contrast to Quito). The fertile soil, fresh air, beautiful landscape, and slower pace of living make the hills surrounding Guayllabamba a great attraction for Quiteños and foreigners seeking to escape the hectic pace and chaos of the city. For those of you from Minnesota, going to Guayllabamba for the weekend would be the equivalent of “going to the lake” or “going up north.”

While not especially large, my grandmother makes good use of the land. Among the various fruits and vegetables she grows are: avocados, oranges, lemons, limes, a type of tomato that grows on trees, potatoes, sweet potato, bananas, and even sugar cane. The avocados take the prize, however. The four or so avocado trees she has produce more than enough avocados for a couple of families. I love avocados, but one can only eat so many in a day.

The house itself is quite modest, consisting of a combined kitchen and common area and a small bedroom attached to the side. It’s quite pleasant, more like a cottage really, but I suppose the idea really isn’t to stay indoors in such a place. For my grandmother, it’s an ideal place I suppose, and I don’t blame her for wanting to stay there. As it turns out, my dad’s cousin Alfredo recently bought a home in the neighborhood. It looks as though the family may end up retiring in Guayllabamba.

November 9, 2007

Thank you all for your wonderful comments! I´m overwhelmed by the support you´ve all shown me. Please know that I miss you all, and that I´m thinking of all of my wonderful friends and family who have shown me nothing but love and support over the years.

Much of this week has been spent getting myself situated, making contacts, and getting my project organized. There are several wonderful cultural and academic resources for Afro-Ecuadorians (or afrodescendientes) here in Ecuador, including the Afro-Ecuadorian Cultural Center (CCA), the Afro-Ecuadorian Foundation for Social and Cultural Development (otherwise known as Azucar), folkloric groups, research institutions like FLACSO, and, of course, academic institutions like the Universidad Andina Simon Bolivar. As you can see, I´m tapping into an ongoing social/cultural movement that has already generated a lot of great material on Afro-Ecuadorian cultural traditions and lifeways; it´s really quite exciting. Over the next month, I hope to visit these institutions/organizations, review the relevant materials, talk with people there about the current social, economic, and political situation facing the black population here in Ecuador, and possibly participate in the workshops/activities that some of them offer. I´ll leave the links to the websites below, in case you´re interested (one small problem, you have to be able to read Spanish).

As for contacts, I´m meeting sometime next week with local ethnomusicologist and good family friend Juan Mullo, as well as with Edison Leon, an academic originally from the Chota-valley. I was encouraged by their enthusiasm and willingness to help. They are invaluable contacts who can provide me with necessary contacts and resources. They also expressed interest in collaborating on a few related projects, which would be an absolutely fantastic opportunity for me to help out with ongoing research here in Ecuador. Other academics I hope to be in contact with are José Chalá and Salamon Acosta, both of whom have done research and have published/presented on the Afro-Ecuadorian communities of the Chota-valley. As for contacts in Carapungo, . . . well that´s where my family comes in.

As you can tell, it´s been a productive week, and I feel good about it. It is very easy to get discouraged and feel unproductive when not actually physically doing what many consider the bread and butter of our discipline (ethnographic fieldwork). Realistically, however, I think true understanding really emerges from those moments outside of those clearly defined and more formal research experiences.

Ok, so enough about that. Thank you once again for your kind words and comments. Aside from dealing with some stomach problems (darn chaulafan!), I´m doing well. I´m attempting to upload pictures, but either my computer or the internet connection is not being very cooperative thus far. I´ll keep at it. If you have any suggestions, please let me know (maybe the images are too large?) Take care for now and we´ll be in touch!

Cuidanse!
Pacho

Websites

www.ipanc.org

www.azucarafroe.com

www.centroafroecuatoriano.com

www.cce.org.ec

www.flacso.org.ec

www.uasb.edu.ec

November 6, 2007

It is now my fifth full day in Ecuador, and I’m just now beginning to feel a bit more settled. I made a concerted effort to unpack all of my belongings, settle in, and stow my luggage for the time being [those of you who know me well will understand the humor in this]. Though it may sound silly, I felt it was a necessary step in helping me adjust. It still hasn’t quite sunk in—the realization that I’m actually here in a different (yet familiar) part of the world, that I’m about to take an important step in my academic career, not to mention embark on an incredible and most likely emotionally charged personal journey. When I think about it, there really is a lot riding on this trip, and it’s all a bit overwhelming. Whatever the outcome, there is no question that it will be a transformative experience (an idea that touches on the notion of fieldwork as a rite of passage). So perhaps it’s better for the time being that mentally, at least, I’m still halfway between Minnesota and Ecuador.

A quick recap of my trip to date: I left Minneapolis/St. Paul on Wednesday, Oct. 31 at 10:00am, accompanied by José Ricardo Suarez (an Ecuadorian studying public health at the UofM) and his girlfriend Nicky (also studying public health). Combined, we had a total of eight pieces of luggage, several of which were overweight, and far more carry on items than rightfully allowed. In my experience, this is par for course when traveling to Ecuador. Aside from a few raised eyebrows and some not so discreet comments concerning our excess carry on items, our flight was uneventful up to Quito.

For those of you unfamiliar with Ecuador, Quito is located in a valley in the Andes. While not the most difficult approach, it is one of the more challenging for pilots considering the surrounding mountains and the location of the airport, which is currently situated in the north side, right in the central part of the valley. That means that planes have to fly into the city, unlike most airports which are just on the outskirts. Imagine the damage and casualties if a plane were to have problems landing or taking off (and yes, it has happened). Now, the weather in Quito is such that the airport often reroutes flights to Guayaquil (a coastal city just southwest of Quito), mainly due to fog. I’ve never had much luck with flights, so it came as no surprise when the pilot announced we would be making a detour. This was at 11:00pm. Fortunately, Continental set us up in a decent hotel near the airport and allowed us to leave our checked luggage on the plane. We finally arrived in Quito Nov. 1 sometime around noon after a few minor delays (including the need to reroute due to the activity of a nearby volcano). As inconvenient as the whole experience was, I give Continental a lot of credit for the way in which they handled the situation. Of course, they have a lot of experience with this sort of thing in Ecuador.

Finally, Quito!! It’s amazing how different and yet so familiar things appear to me. Even though I was last here a little over a year ago, it’s always a bit of an adjustment. The narrow streets, congested traffic, manic driving, endless stream of buses and taxis, billowing exhaust, street vendors, acrobats and peddlers, crowded buildings and apartments built almost on top of one another, … it’s really quite a site. Probably very similar to cities in other parts of the world, I’d imagine (at least in Latin America). While the whole scene may appear somewhat chaotic and perhaps even distasteful to visitors, I think it has a certain charm. If nothing else, it has a certain rhythm that is distinctly Ecuadorian (or maybe just Latin American?—I haven’t traveled enough to know). In any case, I like Quito and could easily see myself staying here some time if I could. We’ll have to see how things unfold.

For fear of losing my audience, I think I’ll stop there for now. Suffice it to say that I’m well, and that I’ve spent the past few days settling in and attempting to get my project off the ground. I’ll be sure to keep you informed as to how things progress. Hope all is well wherever you may be. We’ll be in touch!

Pacho

November 5, 2007

Bienvenidos!

Thank you for joining me in what should be a wonderful trip and productive fieldwork experience here in Ecuador. I must admit that I myself am very excited, albeit a little nervous as the next few months will most likely determine the course of my dissertation. For those of you who may not be aware, I am planning on conducting ethnographic fieldwork among the Afro-Ecuadorian communities here in Ecuador [see personal information]. Specifically, I’m interested in exploring the musical traditions of the Chota-Mira valley and in tackling questions of identity and ethnic relations here in Quito, Ecuador. My study will take me from the Chota valley and Esmeraldas to Quito and possibly Ibarra and Guayaquil. As such, I anticipate being in Ecuador for at least the next ten months, possibly more if funds permit.

Aside from the dissertation, this trip has deeply personal significance for me as I myself am of Ecuadorian (Afro-Ecuadorian) descent. My father is originally from the Chota-Mira valley, and while he now lives and works as a musician and educator alongside my mother in Minnesota, much of his family live now in Carapungo (just north of Quito) and Cuajara (a former hacienda in the Chota-valley). While making progress towards my dissertation, then, I also hope to reconnect with my family, explore my own cultural heritage, and learn something of my own identity in the process. Needless to say, this project is only the beginning of a much longer and more personal journey.

That said, I am very excited and anxious to get underway. So I thank you once again for taking time to join me along this path. This blog will serve multiple purposes, communicating with different audiences (family, friends, advisors, colleagues, and other academics) so please excuse its shifting tone. At times it will read more like an ethnography, at other times like a journal. It will include fieldwork and personal experiences not otherwise related to my dissertation, anecdotes, comments and reflections. It will also include digital photographs and hopefully audio and video (internet connection permitting).

Considering the diverse audience, please be aware that the thoughts posted here are nothing more than that—my perceptions at the moment. They are not meant to be definitive statements about any particular experience, tradition, situation, place, person, etc. In fact, I expect that my thoughts and comments on my experiences here in Ecuador will continue to develop with time, reflection, and further dialogue. If anything, I hope this blog will provide a space for fluid commentary and open dialogue. As such, I encourage you to engage the questions raised either explicitly or implicitly in the content of this blog, and to contribute your thoughts, questions, and constructive criticism.

One last comment . . . I hope to update this blog every few days depending on my internet access and the speed of the connection. My next posting will bring you to speed on my trip to date. Hasta entonces, estaremos hablando!

Un abrazo,
Pacho