Tuesday, November 20, 2007

November 20, 2007

Well, it took me a few weeks, but I finally figured out how to post pictures. If I’m not mistaken, you can see the webalbum by clicking on the slideshow. I’m not exactly sure how it all works, but it definitely wasn’t as simple as they make it out to be (posting the photos). Now facebook, that’s far more user friendly than the blog. Come to think of it, the word “blog” sounds like some sort of grotesque monster—beware the Blog!

The pictures you see are from the first weekend. They include shots of the airport in Houston, the hotel in Guayaquil (and the view from the window), Tonsupa (a coastal town near Esmeraldas), the Suarez family and friends, and of the ride back to Quito. I tried to take pictures of the road signs urging people to slow down and not pass on curves because I thought they were somewhat telling with regards to driving habits here in Ecuador.

Depending on the route taken, the trip between Quito and Tonsupa/Esmeraldas is about five, maybe six hours. On the way to the coast the trip is practically all downhill (some 9,000ft), and it’s all curves. I was always under the impression that you ease up on the acceleration when taking a curve, and that passing cars is done only when you have a clear view of oncoming traffic. Apparently they have a different logic here. Curves are best taken at high speeds and passing is most appropriate when the chances of a head on collision are at a maximum. But what a rush!

Bus drivers are no different in their driving habits. In fact, they are even worse. The first few times I took a bus here in Ecuador, I closed the window shades and kept my eyes on the video screen at the front of the bus. You just have to trust that the bus drivers actually know what they are doing.

Now, driving in the city is a little different, but it also has its own peculiar logic. Street lanes and traffic lights might as well not exist, and pedestrians definitely do not have the right of way (the person who invented frogger must have been from Ecuador). A left hand turn from the right lane is acceptable so long as you have the engine and pick-up to cut of the car in the left hand lane. Excessive honking is an absolute must. Occasional glares and obscenities are only expected. Merging is more like edging your way into traffic until the physical presence of your vehicle can no longer be ignored by other drivers. While buses pick-up and drop off passengers anywhere along their path, don’t expect them to actually come to a complete stop. And motorcycles, well, they drive wherever they can.

I have a theory about traffic logic here. It seems that people drive and negotiate traffic the same way they would as if walking down a crowded street. So the car ends up being an extension of the self (it is anyway, but I mean it most literally here). It’s chaos, but it does have its’ own logic. It seems to be one based on common street sense rather than on some abstract notion of proper vehicular behavior (i.e., traffic laws). That said, the government is working hard to get people to obey traffic laws and to become safer drivers. In fact, just recently the congress—which is about to be dissolved soon, more on that later—targeted public transportation drivers in an attempt to increase fines and generally hold them more accountable for reckless driving. This group of motorists, however, are substantial in size and are quite powerful economically (instead of big tobacco think big public transportation). If public transportation workers were to go on strike, it would practically freeze the city. That’s true almost anywhere, and if I’m not mistaken, in some places (New York, ahem) municipal workers aren’t allowed to strike (in other words, it’s illegal). Go figure. President Correa (more on him later as well) decided to override the congress, choosing to take a different route. From what I understand, as of this next year all driving licenses expire and are to be renewed following the successful completion of an on-road driving exam. Yes, everyone with a license and a vehicle will need to take the exam. Oh to be sixteen again . . .

Drive safely,
Pacho

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